Hi everyone! We often talk a lot about maintenance but not enough about the installation itself. This leads to people often wondering: how to start dreads? Deciding on what type of dreads you want is essential, but then you face the problem of which locking method is best suited to you. Here are the the main ways to lock your hair, as well as their various pros and cons.
1. Two strand twists
This method requires you to wrap one piece of hair around the other (i.e. twist the two pieces together).
Advantages:
- Twists are very simple to install and do not take as long as other methods.
- If they unravel, you can fix it yourself.
- They are easy to undo if you change your mind about locking your hair. (However, you should not make the decision to get locs if you are not certain that this is what you want for the foreseeable future.)
Disadvantages:
- Unraveling is extremely common. You will have to retwist the hair often, especially when washing.
- It takes a long time for your hair to stop looking like twists and start looking locks. This method is slower compared to a method like interlocking (see below).
- Shrinkage is inevitable. People with curly hair already struggle with this. Two strand twists don’t pull or stretch the hair in any way which causes it to shrink even more.
2. Comb coils
The comb coil method requires a bit more skill than two strand twists. Professional locticians tend to prefer to use a coil twist comb but a normal rat tail comb can suffice. You take the edge of the comb to the root of a section of hair, then roll the comb while pulling downwards.
Advantages:
- The coils look nice and shiny in the beginning. It will look like an actual hairstyle, instead of just a way to achieve your locks.
- The installation time is fairly short, even with thick hair.
Disadvantages:
- Frizziness and tangles are unavoidable. After you wash your locs, they will look messy and you will need to go back and maintain the coils.
- Unraveling is also an issue for this method.
- Getting the coils done properly and in the size that you want will take practice. DIY could prove difficult, and it might be best to go to a professional loctician.
3. Finger coils
This is basically comb coils, just without the comb. You just use your fingers to make the coil.
The advantages and disadvantages are similar to the comb coil method. One additional advantage is that it is very simple to do, and thus, is diy-friendly. A disadvantage specific to finger coils would be that if you have short hair, finger coils tend to stick up, i.e. they don’t lie flat straight away. You will have to use clips to keep them down. Comb coils can face this issue too, but the pull of the comb helps to get them flat.
4. Interlocking
Interlocking is the method I use on my own locks, since I have sisterlocks. This method uses a locking tool to create the locs.
For a tutorial on how to interlock, see my post: Self-retightening tips – Interlocking for dummies
For more information on the pros and cons, see my post: Types of dreads: Interlocs vs Sisterlocks vs Palm-rolled locks
Note: if you’re wondering about how to start dreads with palm-rolling, it is used a lot in maintaining locs, but seldom do people actually start their locks by doing it.
5. Free form/matting
All that you need to do for this method is…sit back, relax, and do absolutely nothing! Free form locks are exactly as the name suggest. You leave your hair alone, no manipulation or styling, and let it mat together and lock on its own.
Advantages:
- There is no effort needed for this method.
- Tender-headed individuals can avoid the parting and stress on the scalp that other locking methods can cause.
- No gel or products of any kind are required to start your locs.
Disadvantages:
- It takes a very long time for the hair to mat on its own. This is the slowest of all the locking methods.
- The appearance that your hair takes on might not be very tidy and could leave you looking unkempt. The locks could form in awkward positions, like sticking up or outwards.
Related posts:
To lock or to not? How to decide on locks
Self retightening tips
Types of dreads: Interlocs vs Sisterlocks vs Palm-rolled locks
How to repair a hole in your lock
Until next time!
~Jay
Interlocks
How long does my hair need to be in order to get comb coils?
Hi! I think this depends on the skill of the person doing the coils as some people are able to do it with very little hair. However, generally I’d recommend at least 3 inches. This length should be manageable for anyone doing it.
If I have fine hair that is thinning at the top would it be a bad idea to get micro-locs?
I wouldn’t say it’s a bad idea. If you’re self-conscious about it, you would just have to style your locs accordingly in order to camouflage the thinning.
Thank you very much. I now have micros and they are doing well.
Congrats!🥳🥳 I’m really glad to hear that!
My starter locs were started using the loc smithing method. I cant find examples of other people who’ve done the same. Do you have any thoughts about it? I’m having a hard time knowing what the end result might look like. Thanks !
I didn’t even know people started locs that way; most people use loc smithing for maintenance, not installation. But it’s similar to palm rolling so I’m pretty sure it will end up looking the same as palm rolled locs. However, your hair type will determine exactly how the end result will look. Just give it time. It’ll take at least 1-2 years for your locs to mature.
I have very thin hair in the top and I have locs what can i do about the thinning and my hair is long
Thinning hair is a very difficult issue to resolve. There are some methods that could improve your situation – check out our post: How to fix thinning edges and bald spots. I also recommend that you see a healthcare professional. The thinning could be an underlying symptom of a health issue. I really hope that this helps🙏🏽
My hair is thin, in between color and grey hair, what length should my hair be before starting love. Would sister’s love be better.
You can start sisterlocks at any length once you have enough hair to create a loc, so 2-3 inches minimum. For thin hair, I do believe sisterlocks are better because they are smaller than traditional locs and this will help to create volume.