Hi everyone! Deciding on the type of dreads you want can be hard, especially when it comes to your retwisting method. To help you with your decision, I’ll give an overview of interlocking and palm rolling, as well as their advantages/disadvantages. I’ll also mention the difference between interlocs and sisterlocks since that question seems to come up a lot.
What is interlocking?
Interlocking, also known as latching, is a retightening technique where the end of the lock is pulled through the root of the lock. You can interlock with a locking tool or with your fingers.
For DIY interlocking tips, see my post Self-retightening tips: interlocking
What are sisterlocks?
Sisterlocks are small locs made using a trademarked interlocking technique. In order to install and/or retighten sisterlocks, you have to go through formal training from the Sisterlocks company.
Is there a difference between sisterlocks and interlocks?
Yes. While sisterlocks uses the interlocking technique, the company has trademarked their interlocking patterns. They have specified grid patterns for parting as well as specified locking patterns for different types of hair. Everyone’s hair type is different, and a person can have 2 or 3 different hair types on his/her head. The Sisterlocks company trains people to recognize them so that they can use the required locking pattern on different parts of a person’s head, which guarantees overall high quality locks.
However, with interlocs, there is no formal training or designated pattern. In addition, the person who does it will usually use 1 pattern for the entire head. Because of the lack of training, the price of interlocs is usually lower than sisterlocks. Cheaper can be good but make sure to research the person’s work before letting them touch your hair! I have heard some disaster stories; people have ended up having to get their locks redone. This doesn’t mean that interlocks can’t be professionally done, just be sure that you find a professional who knows what they are doing.
What is palm rolling?
Palm rolling is a retightening technique achieved with your hands and locking gel or wax (some people even do theirs with rose water or plain water). You apply whatever product you use and then roll the loc in your palms until it’s close to the scalp.
Advantages of interlocking vs palm rolling
1. No products needed for retightening interlocs. – Using thick products like wax or gel can cause product buildup and can be difficult to wash out. This will lead to your locks looking dirty. However, while it is common to use wax or gel for palm rolling, it is possible to do it without the use of these products.
2. Less pulling on your edges. – When palm rolling, most people tend to twist the lock tightly in order for it to stay in place. This puts stress on your edges, and often times people notice that their edges will start to thin. This applies especially those who retighten every few weeks in order to keep their locks constantly looking fresh.
3. No potential heat damage. – When palm rolling locks, in order for the wax or gel to dry, people will often use a hair dryer. This can cause potential heat damage, and it also elongates the time taken to retighten your hair. However, it is possible to let your locks air dry to prevent such damage.
Disadvantages of interlocking vs palm rolling
1. Uncertainty about quality. – There is no formal training for interlocs. Each person has different hair and can even have different types of hair on their head. Locticians without experience or the proper training more often than not only use 1 pattern of interlocking which could affect the overall quality of your locks, leading to loc holes. Palm rolling, on the other hand, tends not to have issues with loc holes, though there is still the risk of slippage and unravelling.
2. Higher risk of buildup at the root. – When interlocking, a knot can form at the root of the lock, if not done correctly. This know could hold dirt and product buildup, and leave your locks looking dirty. While palm-rolling can also experience buildup at the root, it is much easier to comb it out than to undo interlocked hair.
3. Not very simple. – Palm rolling is a relatively straight forward technique while interlocking is a bit more complex. Furthermore, there are different rotation patterns that can be used for interlocking while there is only one way to palm roll.
Until next time!
~Jay
Merci pour votre article
J’aime et je souhaite Le faire pour moi
Est ce vous connaissez l adresse à Paris.
Un grand merci
Je suis contente d’avoir pu aider☺️ Malheureusement je ne connais personne à Paris mais vous pouvez consulter sisterlocks.com ou même Facebook pour trouver quelqu’un.
Great article! How can one prevent build up at the roots for interlocks?
Thank you! To fully answer your question, I recommend you read my post: How to prevent lint and buildup.
Does my hair have to be completely natural in order to start interlocs? I have about 2 inches of natural hair and the rest is permed. Should I cut off all the relaxed hair?
Hi! It doesn’t have to be but personally I would recommend cutting off the relaxed hair. It will take time to lock and may even slow the maturing process. Plus most people end up cutting off their relaxed hair eventually anyway. If you’re self-conscious about having short locs you can always try loc extensions.
No you can start with two strand twist to loc your hair. Over time though the relaxed hair will break off eventually or you will find yourself slowly trimming the relaxed ends as your hair starts to mature.
Most people don’t cut the relaxed ends because of the fear of having very short hair in the beginning. I started both time with relaxed hair. Loved the process as it did look cute through the stages as the ends always had a little curl to it.
Can interlocks be any size? or are they small like sister locs? I would like mine to be at least the size of a pencil maybe? Also aren’t interlock kinda like instant locs?
Hi! Interlocs can be any size because the term interlocs is more about the technique than the size. But typically they are on the smaller side because the bigger they are the harder it is to interlock so that’s why people tend to palm roll bigger locs. The size of a pencil is possible though it might be difficult. Personally I’d recommend palm rolling if you want them that big. And lastly interlocs aren’t instant locs. Instant locs are crocheted locs.
Is it common for interlocks to unravel at the end but is locking at the roots on starter locs
Hi! Interlocks have very little chance of unraveling so unless they aren’t interlocked all the way down to the end, I don’t think this is common.
Is it possible to have Interlocks transitioned to Sisterlocks?
Interlocs get their name because of the technique required to do them. Since sisterlocks uses the interlocking technique, transitioning from one to the other should not be difficult. However, the sisterlocks installation is important since there are specified ways to do it, so I think how neatly the interlocs were installed would be a huge factor in this transition.
You make it sound as if interlocking cannot be done professionally. It would have been a much better article if there was no bias towards Sisterlocks
I’m sorry that it came across that way to you. Lack of formal training doesn’t mean that it can’t be done professionally. I was just trying to emphasize the risks. But I’ll be sure to review the article and try to make this clearer. Thanks for the feedback!
Enjoyed this article and your hair looks great. Did you get it done in NY? I’m looking for a good loctician in NYC.
Thank you!! And no I didn’t. I got them installed in Barbados. However, there’s a dreadlocks sub on reddit that you can pose the question to. Maybe someone in there can recommend a good loctician in NYC.
Great article! I have typical 4c hair, but my goal is to achieve volume… which is more likely to give most volume? Sisterlocks or interlocks? Thank you!
Thank you! I don’t think it matters if you use interlocks or sisterlocks since the main difference is the formal training. For both of them you can choose how small you want the lock to be, which will give you more volume. The specific pattern used also matters. For example, 4 point rotation will look thinner than 3 point rotation. When getting them installed you should definitely mention that your aim is volume so that the loctician can act accordingly.
Nice article but when you talk about palm rolling you sound as if you have to use wax or gel products or have to retwist it very tight to the scalp which are disadvantages.
I always palm roll my hair and find it much easier and safer than interlocking. I never use gels or wax, just rose water. I don’t over twist and use clips to keep the twists from unravelling until it dries. I don’t use heat for it to dry either as they air dry.
So no build up of products and no damage from twisting too tightly as you don’t need to do it that tight for it to hold if you use clips X
I didn’t know that rose water and air drying would be enough to work. That’s a great option for those who palm-roll their locs. It’s great that we all have different options at our disposal and can each do what works best for us. I’ll be sure to update the article to reflect these insights. Thanks so much for sharing!